Family Adventures in Bavaria: A Culinary Travel Story with Four Hundred Peaks

A lovely travel day during last month’s Germany trip gave us a true sense of place in two ways: we took in picture-perfect mountaintop views like many other tourists, but we also had the pleasure of a German breakfast and an exquisitely simple homemade meal that ended with an authentic dessert we’d never heard of. For foodies like us who love exploring new terrain and trying new dishes, it was a perfect day, our Bavarian day in Oberstdorf.

Breakfast at Leo’s Alpenblume

We stayed in a “vacation apartment” owned by our cousin Sandra. The complex of five apartments is called Leo’s Alpenblume, meaning alpine flower, and it’s lovely.

We were on the second floor and really enjoyed spending time in the mornings on the southwest-facing balcony, taking in the views. I took some of the pictures with my new Ricoh GR III camera and love the depth and richness it provides. I’m still getting up to speed on how to use it, the proverbial “old dog” learning some new tricks.

One has to be fortified for a trek up a mountain, right? We were treated to a lovely breakfast that arrived at the apartment in waves with our cousins, three generations of them. While we were waiting for everyone to arrive, I took a picture of what I thought was the whole beautiful meal, which one cousin had brought with him, and then put the camera down.

Isn’t it lovely? There were pretzels, hard and soft rolls, croissants, THREE homemade jams — heavenly! — butter, an assortment of fruit and four cheeses.

But wait, there was more! As everyone else poured in, so did more food. I wish I had thought to take another picture. 🤨 There were several different meats, a ham salad, a jar of mustard and another spreadable cheese. It was a wonderful start to a wonderful day.

Way Up High on the Nebelhorn Mountain

The touristing part of the day started with the spectacular: a ride up the Nebelhorn Cable Car with our cousins. Even better, the whole family came along: three generations sharing a mountain with us that they have loved all their lives. They have enjoyed cross-country skiing, hiking and picnicking there, and some have even hiked all the way to the top. No hiking for us, though; the cable car stop and café made the trip just right.

The cable car carried us high above the Bavarian landscape, and the view opened up into mountain peaks in every direction. We learned that you can see 400 peaks from the top. Four hundred! It’s the kind of number that sounds unbelievable until you’re up there, absorbing the breathtaking view no matter which direction you look. So of course I took a boatload of pictures!

The summit cross was originally installed as a weather cross, a prayer for the safety of the hikers traveling through the unpredictable alpine terrain and protection against storms, and also to ask for blessings for the mountain and the local villages. Crosses like this are all over German mountaintops. What a lovely tradition!

And what a lovely day to spend with this family.

Views and Brews

After all that grandeur, we did something wonderfully simple and relaxing: enjoyed beers at the mountaintop café. With the mountain air, sunny day, cold beer, family laughter and views that seemed to go on forever, it seemed like Bavaria was showing off for us. Or more specifically, the Allgäu region of Bavaria was strutting its stuff. Those 400 gorgeous peaks are the Allgäu Alps, which extend into nearby Austria.

Oberstdorf: All Flower Boxes and Bicycles

Later, back down in Oberstdorf, we wandered through the town together, which was every bit as charming as I imagined a small Bavarian town would be. There were flower boxes everywhere, painted buildings, inviting streets, bicyclists, and an unmistakable German Alpine sense of place, surrounded by mountains.

A Delightful Dinner

We went back to our vacation apartment to rest, while our cousins went to work in their kitchens. Dinner that night was going to be a simple backyard meal in the home of the oldest generation, complete with a traditional German dessert.

The oldest generation made the Dampfnudel, while the next generation made the bolognese — a delicious division of labor. Usually, the younger generations would simply walk the few blocks to Oma and Opa’s house for dinner, but this time the main course, homemade spaghetti bolognese, had been made at our second cousins’ house and had to be carefully transported. We picked them up and stowed the big pot of meaty bolognese sauce in the back, and the aroma tempted us throughout the short drive.

Once we were there, it was so cool to see the coordination, ease, and cheerful efficiency of a family that knows how to feed each other. In the small but perfectly appointed kitchen, mother and daughter worked together beautifully, moving around each other with the quiet rhythm of long practice. The family connection felt like invisible golden paper chains tying us together with love.

The bolognese was hearty, comforting and delicious, the kind of food that invites you to relax into the moment. I had seconds, regretting nothing, and the conversation and laughter at the Bavarian family table flowed as smoothly as the wine.

Dampfnudel for Dessert: Damn, It Was Good!

But dessert was the revelation: traditional Dampfnudel, German steamed dumplings served with a creamy vanilla sauce that was out of this world. Everything was homemade! The sauce was decadent, rich and sweet without being cloying, the perfect complement for the dumpling.

That dumpling was full of surprises. At first glance, it looks exactly as it is: pillowy, soft and dense in the best possible way. But then comes the secret: a toasty, buttery brown crust on the bottom, bordering on crunchy, with just a little salty twang. It’s like meeting someone who seems mild and pleasant enough, only to have them say something incredibly insightful and pithy that makes you think, “Well, there’s certainly more here than meets the eye.”

That crust makes the Dampfnudel. A bite with a bit of crust, a pillow of dumpling and a swish of vanilla sauce is, quite simply, the bomb.

My friends, this dessert is BIG. It is bigger than an oversized hamburger bun. And guess what? We learned that sometimes people have Dampfnudel for the main course. It’s that hearty. There’s a savory version, too, usually served with a different sauce, such as mushroom gravy, and sides like potato soup or goulash. Of course, now I want to try those, too!

The Scene I Forgot to Photograph

I wish I had taken pictures of the backyard itself, but I didn’t. Sometimes the best moments are the ones we’re too busy living to document properly. What I do have are photos of the food, and more importantly, the memory of a summer evening in Bavaria when simple things like pasta, dumplings, laughter and family hospitality added up to something unforgettable.

This was the magic of the day: a bountiful breakfast, breathtaking mountain views, beers amidst the peaks, the peace of being welcomed around a family table, and a glorious meal.

Bavarian Family Table

This post is part of my Bavarian Family Table series, a collection of stories from our time with our German cousins — full of family ties, warm hospitality, mountain views, memorable meals and, of course, the table that brings everyone together.

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