“Oh, the places you’ll go!”, said Dr. Seuss. My version is: “Oh, the places you’ll go back to!”, because there are so many wonderful locales where I’ve only glimpsed the charm and culture before having to leave. My bucket list consists of tons of places to go back to so that I can explore and revel in the local history, culture and food, and Portsmouth on the south coast of England is definitely on that list.
Portsmouth is Rich in History
There is so much history embedded in Portsmouth, which was founded in 1180; here are a few tidbits in no particular order: it was a D-Day embarkation point, Charles Dickens and Peter Sellers were born there, it was the site of the world’s first dry dock (est. 1496) and still has the oldest running dry dock (est. 1698), Henry VIII’s ship the Mary Rose sank there in 1545 (and has since been salvaged and made into a museum), and Portsmouth has figured prominently in battles and defense of the region going back to Roman times. There are many cultural highlights, too, from the 1906 King’s Theatre to the annual Victorius Festival, a giant international music event spanning 3 days each August that attracts over 60,000 people per day. There’s so much to do in Portsmouth that a tourist could stay a week and still only scratch the surface.
Gunwharf Quays is Charming
I was there for just one day and one night a year ago this week, and had only a little while to peruse the Portsmouth Harbor waterfront area called Gunwharf Quays, where my hotel was located. It was charming.
Spinnaker Tower is One of the Highest Buildings in the UK Outside of London
Spinnaker Tower is a 560 ft. observation tower that opened on Gunwharf Quays in 2005, its design having been chosen by public vote. It’s beautiful in both the daylight and at night. I didn’t have time to visit it, but when I go back, I definitely will. I’d love to see that beautiful and historic English coast from on high.
A Christmas Festival Added to the Charm
There was a small Christmas festival going on while I was there, increasing the charm exponentially (and increasing my desire to go back – exponentially).
Loch Fyne was a Fine Restaurant
My time in Portsmouth was just an overnight stay, and it was on the long travel day (and night) from the US, with two flights, a long one to London Heathrow, a short layover, and then a short one to Southhampton. I had a late-afternoon meeting (and several more the next day) and was really tired when I went walking around the harbor. For dinner, I didn’t have the energy to do any research and just picked a restaurant that was close by for the sake of convenience. My experience at that restaurant, Loch Fyne, reinforced my belief in “happy accidents”, serendipity, or whatever you call it.
Loch Fyne was fine, in the best sense of that word: “of very high quality”.
It was a Monday night and not busy yet, and I enjoyed sitting in the back of the restaurant, taking it all in as it began to fill up. The ambiance was wonderful; the staff, even better. The food: oolala!
I was too tired to select my main course by myself, and the wait staff had been awesome, so I asked for a recommendation, giving them some guidance: I’m adventurous, a foodie who can take it spicy, and when traveling, I like to eat dishes that reflect the region I’m in. Hands down, their choice for me was the poached smoked haddock. Interesting! I’ve never had something that was poached AND smoked, so that was a new adventure right out of the gate. My guides told me that the dish wasn’t spicy in the traditional sense (hot), but that the mustard sauce gave it flavor and kick.
I happily ordered the recommended dish, and wow, it was an award-winning choice! Atop a bed of mashed potatoes were the haddock, fresh garden peas, wilted spinach and an ample amount of the whole-grain mustard cream sauce. The sauce added a crazy-good spicy and pungent dimension to the haddock, which was perfectly cooked and had an underlying smokiness that enhanced the tender and mild flavor of the fish. The peas brought a brightness and crunch and the spinach added another fresh element that rendered each bite, dripping with the creamy mustard sauce, just perfect. Literally perfect.
How can I remember all this a year later? Because it was THAT good: Loch Fyne was FINE! But also, I took notes, intending to post about it as soon as a returned from my trip, but then it was time for Christmas and I was busy, so it got sidelined. Until now, when it popped up on my photos as I was looking for something else Christmas-themed. I was so happy for the reminder!
I Will Come Back to Portsmouth and Loch Fyne
The Portsmouth meetings last December were a convenient add-on to another trip to the UK and France that was already planned, but now that I know about it, Portsmouth won’t be an add-on next time: it will be an intentional destination, with a longer stay. I will go for personal reasons rather than business and take The Grill-Meister with me—he loves history, culture and food, too. Loch Fyne, you can be assured that your amazing dining experience will be featured on our itinerary.
Hmmmmm, when’s the next opening in our calendars?
What places are on your “Go Back To” bucket list?
© 2023, Glover Gardens
Glad you enjoyed Pompey! The ships in the Historic Dockyard are well worth a visit.
Next time!!!
I’ve never been to Portsmouth but it sure looks like a wonderful place to explore. I’d love to take in the views from the observation deck.
You should go, and then write about it! Your blog is excellent.
Thanks so much and right back at you 😘
I got very confused for a while because I thought you had been to Loch Fyne and it took me a while to work out that you were still in Portsmouth! I googled the restaurant though, and I see it is the same people who run the Loch Fyne Oyster Bar up here. It’s very well thought of, but given my veggie diet I’ve never been.
I bet they do great veggies, too! Thank you for reading, Anabel, and I really do need to get back to Glasgow to meet up with you.
You do!
I was about to tell you my Portsmouth story but mine was in New Hampshire. Never mind! 😬
I’d still like to hear it? Or, do you have a link to a post?
It was really no big deal. I went to Rhode Island to do some Navy duty back in 2008. I had never been to New England, so I wanted to check out every New England state while up there. I drove to Kittery, Maine to eat lobster, not realizing Portsmouth, NH was right across this little bridge from the restaurant. I walked over after and they had a festival going on. I had a great time!
Rhode Island, Maine and New Hampshire in one fell swoop – that’s efficient!
Actually day 1 I drove from RI to Massachusetts, then Maine, NH and Vermont, then back to my hotel in RI. Day 2 I checked out Connecticut. And that was it! Hit every New England state in a weekend.
We all got drunk in Portsmouth city
Fall down me Billy
We all got drunk, sure more’s the pity
Fall down Billy O’Shea
We lay ourselves down on Gunwharf Quay
And when we woke we were out to sea
On Nelson’s Ship, the Victory
We are not sailors captain dear
We come from the land and we won’t work here
O, I love this! Is it a history sea shanty or did you compose it anew? I’ll never think of Portsmouth again without thinking of this ditty. Thank you and Merry Christmas!!!
Historic, though modified slightly to HMS Victory. I was awestruck when I visited the historic battleship, and ghosts of the sailors who died alongside Horatii were whispering the tune. Merry Christmas KGG!
What an awesome addition to my post. Now I REALLY can’t wait to get back to Portsmouth! Merry Christmas to you, too!
“Horatii” – what an awful mis-key. Why can’t we edit our comments? My thumbs are sometimes fat little poltergeists.